Jordan & Lebanon [2023]

Updated: Oct 28, 2023

We visited Jordan and Lebanon with some of our awesome UAE friends. Rock climbing in Wadi Rum was our objective, but our shared love for travel and connection made this trip extra special for us as we visited several other locations. We had always wanted to visit Jordan (specifically Petra because of Indiana Jones), but we jumped at the opportunity to add in Lebanon when our Lebanese friend offered to show us around the country. From the dramatic, arid monoliths of Jordan to the lush, green mountains of Lebanon...we couldn't get enough!

Pre-trip Notes

Jordan Pass: This waives your tourist entry fee and gets you entry to numerous points of interest throughout Jordan. It doesn't get you entry to every historical site, so be sure to check which places are included! We opted for the "Jordan Wanderer" (70 JOD), which was all we needed for our trip.
As Americans visiting Lebanon, we were met with additional questions at airport customs. It helped that our friend is from there and was able to help communicate our travel plan. If you have a similar experience, just be patient!

What We Did

Aqaba, Jordan

Ayla: We had some time to spare between landing in Jordan and going to our Airbnb. So, we stopped by Ayla for dinner, drinks, and window shopping. It had the perfect atmosphere to relax and unwind for the evening!
Al Mamlah Beach, Tala Bay, Gulf of Aqaba: Great place for some beers while enjoying the views of Jordan, Israel, and Egypt (with KSA just around the corner).

Wadi Rum!
- Accommodations
  - Climber House: A cheap, fun stay in the heart of Wadi Rum Village! The host is very friendly and knows how to get to all of the crags (and has ALL the topos, some beautifully hand-drawn) <3
  - Bedouin Roads: We also wanted to stay inside the desert a couple of nights. There are a lot of similar camps in Wadi Rum with various "glamping" levels, but we really enjoyed the setup of this one! The host is incredibly accommodating and is an amazing cook!

Climbing
- Crag - Jebel M'zeygeh: Likely the best sport crag in Wadi Rum. There was a good spread for our skill level (hardest route is rated 6B) and was the perfect number of routes for two days of climbing. There is a multi-pitch and a couple of trad routes, as well.
  - NOTE: We were there in April so it was chilly in the mornings, but hot after the sun came up. The crag had full sun around 10:30am.
- Other bolted spots: The host at the Climber House took us to some lesser-known sport routes. So, if you're looking for something different, he'll hook you up.
Lawrence's House: Nabataean ruins where T.E. Lawrence's supposedly slept during his time in the desert during the Arab Revolt.
Mushroom Rock: Quick-hit photo stop.
Um Frouth Rock Bridge: One of the iconic rock bridges of Wadi Rum. Worth the picture!
Little Bridge: Took the bouldery way up for this one :P Fun little bridge to explore
Burdagh Bridge: We did this hike on our own, but if you aren't comfortable with scrambling up some rocks (at the end to get to the bridge), we suggest you hire a guide to help you up. We experienced some incredible views and saw some fun wildlife, too!
Jebel Umm Ad Dami: The highest point in Jordan! It's a straight-forward hike to get to the top and has an unobstructed view of Wadi Rum and KSA.
Burrah Canyon: This was a fun canyon walk to pass some time after our second climbing day. It is fully exposed, however, so be sure to have sun protection (lotion, hat, long sleeves/pants)! Also, there is a little tent shop at the end, so bring some cash if you'd like a souvenir and/or some tea.
Nabataean Temple: We were able to walk to this while staying at the Wadi Rum Village. Very interesting Nabataean ruins (1st Century BCE)...and free!

Petra: We did this on our own and went HA (Haul Ass) speed. It might have been worth it to hire a guide to learn a bit more about its history, but we stopped to read some signs as they were available. An obvious highlight was The Treasury, but there are so many interesting ruins along the way to The Monastery. It's thought Petra was inhabited by the Nabataeans as early as the 7th Century BCE until about the 2nd Century BCE. It was later attacked or controlled by the Ancient Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, and Crusaders. The Nabataeans were nomadic people, and Petra was a major trading hub with a multitude of different cultures.

Accommodations - 7 Caves: A fun stay with nice views! We could also see a castle nearby (Shobak Castle).

Dead Sea, Jordan

Accommodations - Marriott: This was the perfect spot for a rest day. We covered ourselves in mud and floated on top of the Dead Sea!

Madaba, Jordan

Mount Nebo: Said to have been the place Moses spent his final days, Mount Nebo has a museum with artifacts (including mosaics), as well as great views of the Jordan River emptying into the Dead Sea.
St. George's Church: A quaint little church with the oldest known map of Jerusalem. A quick stop but well worth the visit!

Amman, Jordan

Jerash: Spectacular Roman ruins we explored an hour north of Amman. We spent a couple of hours here just before sunset.
Downtown Roman Nymphaeum: This was technically closed, but a security guard let us in for a small fee. There is also what used to be an Ancient Roman pool!
Amman Citadel: The area is thought to have been inhabited since the Neolithic period and was controlled by the Ptolemies, Ancient Romans, Byzantines, and Umayyads, just to name a few. The citadel includes an ancient mosque, an unfinished Temple of Hercules, and a great view of a Roman Theater downtown.
Climbat: One of our friends used to work here, so we had to visit! We didn't have enough time to do anything other than boulder, but the roof on the tall wall is the highlight.

Beirut, Lebanon

Raouché (Pigeon Rock): On the corniche, best to see during the day, but also pretty cool at night.
Mohammad Al Amin Mosque: We only observed from the outside, but the blue domes make for a beautiful contrast against the tan façade.
Martyr's Monument: We saw this as we drove by. It's a statue that commemorates those hanged during WWI for speaking out against the Ottoman ruler. We think it really speaks to the vibrant nature of the Lebanese people.
Beirut Tarboush HHH: What a fun group of people! We especially enjoyed a trail set in the beautiful mountainside of Beirut. We learned to identify wild za'atar (thyme)!

National History Museum: The museum was shut down and badly damaged for two decades during the Lebanese Civil War. This place was definitely worth the visit.
- Side note: The Beirut Rafic Hariri International Airport has photos throughout showing "before and after" civil war-modern day photos of Beirut. We honestly couldn't believe the difference.
MIM Mineral Museum: One of the best mineral museums we've seen! There are SO many specimens, even a special exhibit showcasing several fossils from the guys who run Memoire du Temps in Byblos.
Al-Abed Clock Tower: We just stopped for a quick photo on the way to the airport. Downtown seemed empty, and there was a military officer standing near where we parked. The place was empty, and we asked if we could take a photo just in case - No problem.

Byblos, Lebanon

Baatara Gorge Waterfall: Amazing sinkhole with three vertically stacked windows to the waterfall within. We watched Victor Guillermin project the iconic climb (Magical Sinkhole, ~9a), apparently one of the Middle East's toughest routes. He would go on to send the route a week or so after our visit! Other than that, this place is incredibly beautiful, and we even bought some cedar honey at a hut near the parking lot before leaving.
Old Souq: The perfect place to wander. We were particularly fond of the free wine tastings at the Cubai trolley.
- Memoire du Temps: a shop showing and selling AMAZING soft body fossils found in Lebanon. We chatted with the owners, and they told us all about a collaborative project with the Chicago Field Museum.
Jeita Grotto: Both of us originally thought, "Eh, a cave. Skippable." Boy, were we wrong. This cave is absolutely spectacular, possibly one of the best in the world! We highly recommend you visit if you get the chance. There's even a boat ride in the lower cavern.

Gibran Khalil Museum: Our friend is a fan of the Lebanese-American writer, so we stopped by this museum. He was really insightful and talented! Not only did he write, he was also quite the artist.
Kadisha Valley: Gorgeous views as we drove through the area. There was also a good deal of fog, but when it was clear the views were amazing.
Cedars of God: The Internet claims this isn't the "best" place to see cedars, but we thought it was pretty incredible. The walking paths are great, and the smell of the trees was just what we needed.

Byblos Citadel: Built by the Crusaders in the 12th Century, the Citadel has some of the best views of the Mediterranean!

Baalbek, Lebanon

Baalbek Roman Ruins: Hands-down the best Roman ruins we've ever seen (rivals those we saw in Italy). This was one of the top highlights of our entire trip! Site was originally built by the Phoenicians, and later the Romans, Byzantines, and finally fortified by the Arabs during Crusades.

Tyre, Lebanon

Ruins of Tyre: These ruins were not nearly as detailed and in-tact as the Baalbek ruins, but the extent of the ruins was still very impressive! The main areas were the Byzantine necropolis, full of sarcophagi, and a massive Roman hippodrome. You could also see the influence of the Romans vs. Byzantines in the road pavement (Romans used larger blocks for roads, for example).

Saida, Lebanon

Accommodations - Airbnb: Adorable Hobbit-like house in the heart of Saida.
- Side note: LOTS of artifacts in the National History Museum are from Saida, including the sarcophagi!
Visit Saida Trail:
- Saida Sea Castle: Crusader-built and improved by the Ottomans, the Sea Castle is a highlight to see while in Saida.

Khan el Franj: Once a large trading square, it now acts as an outdoor art exhibition.
Khan el Sacey: An old Ottoman house that is now a small museum.
Debbane Palace: An Arab-Ottoman style residence built in the 18th Century by Ali Agha al-Hammud and later inhabited by rich silk traders (the Dabbanes).
Soap Museum: Cute little museum and great soaps!
Bab el Saray Square: We visited on a Friday morning, so it was all very empty. But, this area (the whole Saida Souq, really) has so much character and makes for great photos.

Food

Aqaba & Talabay, Jordan

Hyatt Vista Lounge: Great spot for lounging near the water.
Suzana Restaurant: We nearly stayed here half the day. Food is decent, but the real allure is sitting just off the beach.

Wadi Rum, Jordan

Climber House: The food was homemade and delicious every single night. They even had vegetarian options!

Petra, Jordan

Al Maqa'ad Bar: Just what we needed after HA'ing our way through Petra.
My Mom's Recipe: Delicious late-night dinner! Highly recommend.