Kyoto is a fascinating place governed by a balance between nature and humans. Walking down the Philosopher's Path, you forget you're in one of Japan's most populated cities. The path is located along a small canal full of moseying ducks and fish, sleepily draping trees, and a veneer of deep-green moss enveloping much of the untrodden surfaces. Occasionally, you pass a few shrines with ancient wood carvings and elegant architecture that is deeply rooted in the history of Japan. Such shrines exude a sense of purpose and fragility that significantly contrasts with the modern city center just blocks away. And the antiquated temples and blossoming gardens are meticulously curated, with some proving to be among the most peacefully beautiful places the world has to offer.
Besides, there's nothing quite like the excitement of navigating train schedules, ordering street food, and exploring new cities where the language is completely different from your own.
Pre-trip Notes
JR Pass: We went with the 7-day pass. You get a waiver in the mail that you exchange for the actual pass once you arrive at the airport. You can activate the pass immediately or have it activated at a later date (attendant simply writes the date on the pass the first time it is used).
The JR passes, which are intended for travelers/tourists only, are also good for other local JR lines in Japan. It can't be used for the other train lines, so for those, see the notes on the Suica/IC cards.
As for the Shinkansens (bullet train), we went with the green car/class (~$345/person for one week). It's a bit more comfortable, and you can make reservations if you want to sit together as a group.
Suica/IC/other train passes: These cards are used for all other train/bus transportation in much of Japan.
We got ours at a small convenience store at the airport. We highly recommend you do this, because not all convenience stores elsewhere sell the actual cards. You can also order them in advance.
You can load up your cards at the train stations with cash or convenience stores with card/cash (similar to major cities in the US).
We used Google Maps to get around on the trains, but having a physical, local map comes in handy.
"Cash is King": This is especially true for Kyoto. Several places will not take credit/debit card. We never had any problems withdrawing money from ATMs. Just be sure to let your card companies know of your travel in advance.
Lunch/Dinner reservations: Many restaurants are quite small and require reservations. Again, this was especially true for Kyoto Izakaya-style dining.
We had no problem staying in Airbnbs during our trip. We even stayed at a cool place in Kyoto with a traditional tatami floor. But new regulations have taken a toll on Airbnb in Japan.
What We Did
Tokyo
Anata No Warehouse: Really cool dystopian arcade and gambling building in Kawasaki with no cost to enter.
Robot Restaurant: Incredibly touristy ... but 100% worth it. The Wi-Fi-navigated robots and passionate performers are fantastic. We booked through Viator for about $60.
Sensō-ji: Beautiful temple with a (busy) market out front. There was even a ceremony happening while we visited.
Yokoamicho Park: A memorial to the lives lost in the 1923 Firestorm and the victims of the bombing of Tokyo during World War II. There are also flowers planted in the shape of a picture (a panda when we saw it).
Edo-Tokyo Museum (~$5-$6 entrance fee): I'm not much a museum-goer, but I was able to learn quite a bit at this museum about the Edo Period when Japan was under control of the Tokugawa Shogunate.
Ginza: One of the shopping areas of Tokyo that is known for its luxurious goods for purchase.
Tsukiji Fish Market: We walked around while sellers were closing shop, but it's still a worthwhile visit. It is possible that Tsukiji has since moved to the Toyosu Market.
Odaiba: Here we met up with a family friend to have dinner, see the giant Gundam Robot, view the Rainbow Bridge, and play Mario Kart at a nearby arcade.
Imperial Palace Gardens: Beautiful gardens, ponds, and castle walls in the heart of Tokyo. There are tours available, but we were content with wandering on our own.
Shibuya: Here we mostly wanted to observe the "busiest intersection in the world." The pedestrian crossing is best viewed from the second-story Starbucks.
Takeshita Street: Famous, kitschy, busy shopping street in the Harajuku area. Good for people-watching and quirky gifts.
Yoyogo Park: Vast and lovely park in Shibuya.
Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building: Beautiful (and free) views of Tokyo. The South Tower gets you a better view of Yoyogi Park.
Kyoto
Arashiyama Bamboo Forest, Tenryu-ji, and Monkey Park: Beautiful temple, expansive bamboo grove, and monkey park. It's about $5 to see only the monkeys. Just be sure to not feed them or stare them in the eyes -- they can get aggressive!
Kyoto area shrines and temples:
Ryōan-ji: Known for its rock garden --> 300-500 yen.
Kinkaku-ji: Golden Temple; one of the most famous temples in Kyoto --> 400 yen.
Ginkaku-ji: Silver Temple; beautiful moss here --> 300 yen.
Nanzen-ji: Aqueduct and gorgeous views of the forest --> 500 yen to go in the building.
Chion-in: Massive gate --> free to walk around outside.
Kiyomizu-dera: Grouping of bright orange buildings in eastern Kyoto --> 300 yen.
Yasaka Shrine: Lantern building best seen at night --> free.
Fushimi Inari Taisha: One of the most famous shrines of Kyoto where orange Shinto gates line forest paths up the mountain. We'd highly recommend hiking for a while if you have the time! --> free.
Pontocho Alley: Great area to walk and grab a drink. We especially liked a bar called Jive.
Philosopher's Path: Peaceful walkway along a canal in northeastern Kyoto that connects several temples and shrines.
Gion District: Geisha region with quaint shops and restaurants.
Gekkeikan Ōkura Sake Museum: Fun sake museum with an opportunity to taste at the end!
Nijō Castle: Incredibly beautiful place, but it's very spread out. So, be sure to get there well before closing hours --> 600 yen.
Tea Ceremony: Really informative and zen ceremony that we booked through Viator --> ~$40 USD.
Hiroshima
Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park: Here you are able to see the Atomic Bomb Dome and park to memorialize those lost as a result of the bombing of Hiroshima.
Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum: Such an impactful experience. It takes an emotional toll, but it's very much worth the trip --> 200 yen.
Osaka
Dōtonbori: Iconic, brightly lit streets and good food.
Food
Remember to make reservations, if needed!
Tipping is not customary.
Tokyo
V I Z Z Cafe and Bar: Cozy place for a quick bīru (beer).
Gonpachi Nishi-Azabu (Kill Bill-inspired restaurant): We went here for Nick's sister's birthday. It definitely caters to tourists, but we really enjoyed the atmosphere and food here.
Kyoto
Arashiyama Yoshimura: Reeeally good food near the monkey park (Excellent for udon).
Menami: A little hard to find but is worth the search for this obanzai-style restaurant (native to Kyoto using mostly local ingredients). Look for the Japanese characters, めなみ. With traditional floor tatami seating, you must take your shoes off while you eat.
Gion Yakiniku Ishiya: Great local beef and tea for lunch.
Dandelion Chocolate: Cute spot for coffee and chocolate in the Gion District.
Food stand: Delicious okonomiyaki (savory Japanese pancake) at おやつ村. They can be large, so start with one for one to two people.
Halal Ramen Gion Naritaya: Halal Japanese food. This place was okay, but it is accommodating by having a prayer room for those of the Islamic religion.
Giro Giro Hitoshina: AMAZING food that is beautifully prepared kaiseki-style. But, again, make sure to bring enough cash!
Osaka
Showa Taishu Hormon Dotombori: Crammed, but fun place to grill your own food.
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