Ireland [2018]

Updated: Apr 11, 2023

Neither of us, at this point, had driven on the left side of the road. I said, “Take as much time as you need. We are in no rush, so ride around the parking lot first if that makes you more comfortable.” What did Nick do? He went straight for the highway. I sat questioning my life choices and Nick's sanity while we drove 100 kmh on small, winding roads with no shoulder on the back roads of Ireland. At one point, after I had told him he was getting a bit too close to the edge of the road, all of a sudden I heard a quick “squeak, squeak, squeak” as the car’s tires scraped the curb. I thought he ran over a family of field mice. Nick previously spent two weeks in college studying the geology of western Ireland and wanted to share some of his experiences with me. Adjusting to the different driving conditions was exciting, but it paled in comparison to the beauty of the Irish countryside.

What We Did

Loop Head

Loop Head Lighthouse: Beautiful views of the Atlantic Ocean and famous geology --> €5.
Bridges of Ross: Natural coastal bridges, like much of the west coast can be walked for free and is very relaxing. Look out for the social cows nearby!
Drive the coast: The western coast of Ireland has some of the most gorgeous cliffs in the world. Simply driving and stopping at your own whim is lovely.

Kilkee

O'Mara's: I'll mention it again in the "Gastronomy" section, but I can't emphasize it enough ... this place is amazing for Guinness, chill vibes, and local music.
Diamond Rocks: Fun, coastal place we explored after breakfast.

Doolin

The Rock Shop: Amazing specimens for geologists and normies alike!
Cliffs of Moher: A very popular tourist destination, but you gotta go. It's worth walking the coast both to the north and south (€3.50-€8/person). Be careful of the edge!
The Burren National Park: Great place to learn about geology and neolithic tombs (Poulnabrone Dolmen).
Drive the coast: Again, driving the coast here and stopping to take in the scenery/rocks is worthwhile.

Dublin

Quick travel notes: We returned our rental car before checking into our Airbnb. We had never taken a bus in Ireland. So, we used Google Maps to figure out where we needed to be picked up, and the nice driver was able to tell us when to get off the bus and for how much.
Drimnagh Castle: We got here just as the place was closing, but the garden was nice to enjoy after our long drive from County Clare. But if you plan better than us, it's €5 for a tour (cash only).
Malahide Castle and Gardens: Beautiful castle and grounds with a good bit of Irish history. We even learned how the phrase "saving face" came to be! (€12.50/adult).
Kilmainham Gaol (Kill-main-ham Jail): A prison that played a major political role in modern Irish history and its independence. It's really worth a visit! And you should try to book in advance. There is a stand-by line, however, but booking online will be your best bet. Most, if not all, political prisoners of Ireland were kept here. During the Potato Famine, people even committed small crimes to ensure they would be consistently provided a solid meal (€8/adult to visit).
Guinness Storehouse/Gravity Bar: In all honesty, the entrance fee is pretty steep for a brewery tour, but the Gravity Bar at the top is a great view and may be the best pint of Guinness in the world (€18.50/adult). Also, if you're into Guinness history, it's definitely worth visiting once.
The Brazen Head: Ireland's oldest pub. Great spot to watch some football
St. Patrick's Cathedral: We didn't go in, but we thought a walk around the church was certainly worth our time with some cool photo spots (€8/adult for admission).
Dublin Castle: Found ourselves putzing and decided to wander around. This was a nice place to escape the heat; we visited when Ireland was in the middle of a drought (€8/adult self-tour).
Temple Bar Area: Crowded and extremely well-visited by tourists from around the world. It's a great place to grab beers, meet new friends, and people-watch.

Trinity College Library: The Book of Kells Illuminated Text was something Nick didn't see during his first visit to Ireland, and we thought it was really cool. The library was filled with ancient texts and was a really great spot to take a step back in time (€11-14/adult).

Food

Carrigaholt

Long Dock Pub and Restaurant: Recommended by a friend who did his graduate work here, this place has amazing fresh seafood and local brews.

Kilkee

O'Mara's: Like I said before, the ambiance is incredible here for Guinness and music.
Diamond Rocks Cafe: Amazing views over coffee/breakfast.

Kilfenora

Vaughan's Pub: Nick stayed at the hostel here for a university geology trip, and the food is SO good. He was even able to catch up with the owners. Also, it has become a major wedding destination for Americans.

Burren